Grooming and coat
What brush should I use for a double coat?
Last updated 23 September 2026 · How we write and check this
Short answer
A slicker brush handles the top guard coat, but an undercoat rake, with its rounded, widely spaced teeth, is the tool that actually reaches and removes the dense undercoat underneath. Most double coated dogs benefit from using both in the same session, slicker first, rake second.
Why one brush is not enough
A slicker brush, with its fine, closely packed pins, is excellent at smoothing the outer guard hairs and catching surface debris, but its short reach means it rarely gets down through a thick undercoat. An undercoat rake is built differently, with longer, rounded teeth spaced to slide past the guard coat and pull loose undercoat away from the skin without cutting live hair.
A practical two brush order
Start with the slicker brush over the whole body to remove surface tangles and loose debris, then follow with the undercoat rake in the same sections, working from the skin outward. On a Golden Retriever or Husky, this combination during a shedding week can remove noticeably more loose hair than either tool alone.
A comb for finishing touches
A metal comb is useful afterward around the ears, tail, and legs, the finer furnished areas where a slicker or rake can be too aggressive, and it doubles as a check: if the comb glides through cleanly, the coat underneath is properly worked through rather than just tidy on top.
Key takeaways
- A slicker brush manages the top coat; an undercoat rake is needed to clear the dense layer underneath.
- Using both tools in the same session, slicker first then rake, removes more loose hair than either alone.
- A fine metal comb is useful for finishing delicate areas like the ears and legs.